Using Herbs In the Garden
Planting herbs is a great addition to the vegetable garden. Besides providing delicious, fresh additions to meals, they are easy to care for, pleasant to look at, and pack a powerful punch as companion plants. Herbs are the easiest plants to intersperse between food plants, in order to increase yields. They are strongly scented to attract beneficial insects thus encouraging pollination and providing shelter for them, or repel and confuse the bad ones.There are dozens and dozens of herbs.
I’ve chosen 16 that will be great additions to your vegetable gardens. Let’s jump right in!
Basil – Annual (Can plant in own container or inter-plant 1-2 seedlings with vegetables in the same container. If inter-cropping, choose smaller, globe types. Basil does not like wet feet. Basil planted in a container should not sit in water, so may be better suited to RGGS vs. KPGS.)
Benefits:
- It’s strong scent repels: asparagus beetles, white flies, thrips, aphids, spider mites, flies, mosquitoes, and tomato hornworms. When in the garden, crush the leaves to release the scent.
- Improves the flavor and growth of crops, especially tomatoes, lettuce and petunias.
- When left to flower, it attracts pollinators such as bees. Butterflies like basil, too. 😉
- Chamomile planted in the same container with basil increases the essential oils.
Companion Plants:
Plays well with most throughout the garden, but especially good with: peppers, lettuce, tomatoes, parsley, thyme, oregano, and benefits the growth of petunias when inter-planted with them.
Foes:
Dislikes rue, sage, and rosemary. Basil will kill rosemary if planted together.
Seed Starting:
Basil starts easily and germinates fairly quickly with optimum conditions. It should be seed started 6-8 weeks prior to the average last frost date for your growing zone. Sow seeds ¼” deep. Keep the soil moist at 70 degrees F. Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days. Height 12-18”, Spread 10-14”, Days to Maturity 60-90, grows in Full Sun. Hardiness Zones- grown as perennials in zones 10 and above, for most it is a tender annual that only lasts until the first frost and must be replanted every season.
Maintenance:
Keep pruned to promote bushy growth. Harvest regularly, but do not cut all the way back. Allow some to bolt (flower and go to seed,) to attract beneficials.
Borage – Annual, but is a self-sower if left in place. (Plant in its own container. Borage does not like wet feet. A container of borage should not sit in standing water.)
Benefits:
- Repels many garden pests along with the tomato hornworms and cabbage worms.
- Improves the flavor and growth of companion plants if inter-planted with them.
- Attracts beneficial insects: especially bees and parasitic wasps.
- Borage leaves are known to contain potassium, calcium and Vitamin C. The older, larger, fading leaves make nice mulch for almost any vegetable.
- The borage plant material is also a rich contributor of nutrients and bulk for a compost bin.
- Fermenting the leaves in water for two weeks, then straining the solids, makes an excellent organic fertilizer. (Can use as a fertilizer weekly diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts water. The borage solution can keep for several months.)
Companion Plants:
Plant near: tomatoes, strawberries, cabbage, and squash
Foes:
Found none in my research.
Seed Starting:
Sow seeds directly in the garden after the last date of frost. Plant seeds ¼-1/2” deep, 12” apart. Thin the seedlings to 1’ apart when the plants measure 4 to 6 inches tall. Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days.
Height: 2-3’ tall, Spread 12”, Blooms late spring through summer, grows in Full Sun.
Maintenance:
Borage will start to decline in bloom if they are not deadheaded. These plants self-sow; if you do not want it to spread, remove fading blooms or discard the plants after they bloom. Borage plants do not like wet feet and is best to not let it sit in standing water when planted in containers. If planted in a container resting on the ground, water when the top 2” of the potting mix feels dry; give it a good deep drink letting the container drain freely.
Catmint – Perennial (ALL mints are invasive spreaders and should be planted in their own containers. All mints like moist soil; the growbags in a KPGS work well for them. The buckets on a gutter in an RGGS set-up will work fine, too, as the roots will only draw up what they need. In the buckets on a gutter, I would top water a couple of times a week for two weeks until you are assured they are established and growing well.)
Benefits:
- The strong scent of the mint family repels: aphids, asparagus beetles, ants, cabbage moths, Colorado potato beetles, squash bugs, and Japanese beetles.
- Spearmint and Peppermint additionally repel: black flea beetles, cabbage maggots, mosquitos, and the white cabbage butterfly.
- When left to flower, it attracts bees and butterflies.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: beans, broccoli, cucumbers, potatoes, peppers, and squash
Foes:
Don’t inter-plant with parsley.
Seed Starting:
Seed start catmint indoors 4-8 weeks prior to the average last frost date for your growing zone. Sow seeds ¼” deep. Keep soil moist at 70 degrees F. Seedlings emerge in 14-21 days. Height: 18”, Spread 12-14”, Days to Maturity 80-90, grows in Full Sun. Hardiness Zones 4-8.
Maintenance:
Pinch back in the spring after a few inches tall to promote bushier growth habit. Divide every 3-4 years. Deadhead spent blooms to help prevent reseeding in the garden, or grow Faassen’s Catmint which is sterile. Allow some to bolt (flower and go to seed,) to attract beneficials.
Chamomile – Roman Chamomile is a Perennial and best used for container growing. German Chamomile is an Annual that reseeds and some areas consider it a noxious weed and invasive. (Plant chamomile in its own container with a 12” diameter or inter-plant with another herb, with the same growing parameters, in a larger container. Chamomile does not like wet feet, and when planted in a container, should not sit in water.)
Benefits:
- Increases the essential oils of any nearby herb.
- Attracts hoverflies and parasitic wasps that prey on aphids and other pest insects. Additionally, attracts bees and butterflies.
- Chamomile tea can be sprayed on seed starts to prevent damping off.
- Believed to increase the absorption of calcium when added to a compost pile.
- This short herbal carpet can be used as a lawn substitute as it grows on slopes, spreads to fill in gaps, and it blocks out most weeds. It tolerates light foot traffic and can be mowed (after flowering with the mower set on its highest setting.)
- Flowers are used in herbal teas and are said to have medicinal properties.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: basil, onions, cabbage, and cucumbers; chamomile planted in the same container with basil increases the oils.
Foes:
None found.
Seed Starting:
Roman Chamomile should be seed started 6-8 weeks prior to the average last frost date for your growing zone. Surface sow seeds and cover lightly with peat moss, keep under lights as the seeds need light to germinate. Keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet until germination at 68 degrees F. Seedlings emerge in 7-10 days. Space seedlings 6” apart. Height 4-8”, Spread 6-12”, Days to Maturity 120, grows in Full Sun, Partial Shade when temps reach above 90 degrees F. Hardiness Zones- grown as perennials in Zones 4-9.
Maintenance:
Deadhead flowers if you don’t want volunteer seedlings.
Cilantro – Annual (Also known as Mexican parsley. Cilantro is a cool season herb that can bolt quickly in the heat. Can plant in its own container or inter-plant 1 with vegetables in the same container. Like mint, cilantro likes moist soil; the growbags in a KPGS work well for them. The buckets on a gutter in an RGGS set-up will work fine, too. As the roots will only draw up what they need. In the buckets on a gutter, I would top water a couple of times a week for two weeks until you are assured they are established and growing well.)
Benefits:
- Cilantro deters: aphids, potato beetles, spider mites and white flies.
- When left to flower, it attracts parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Choose varieties that bolt quickly and flower.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: beans, celery, eggplant, peas, potatoes, spinach, and tomatoes.
Foes:
Don’t inter-plant with fennel or dill.
Seed Starting:
Seed start in place outdoors. It doesn’t do well transplanted as it develops a taproot. Height: 18-24”, Spread 10-14”, Days to Maturity 60-90, grows in Full Sun. Hardiness Zones 3-8, planted in the spring; Hardiness Zones 9-11, planted in the fall or winter.
Maintenance:
Leaves can be harvested around 45 days. Fertilizing will delay flowering.
The seeds from cilantro are actually coriander and are easy to harvest and handle. Harvest seeds on a dry day. Cut the top of the stems when the seedpods begin to turn brown and crack if pressed. Store seedpods in a paper bag and finish the ripening process for a few weeks in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place. Pods can be shaken and rolled around in your hands to release the seeds.
Cilantro will reseed in the garden, so unless you desire that, make sure pods are harvested prior to them dropping their seeds.
Dill – Biennial (Usually grown as an annual. Grow in its own container. Dill does not like wet feet. Dill in a container should not sit in standing water.)
Benefits:
- Dill repels: aphids, spider mites, squash bugs, and cabbage flies.
- Serves as a trap crop for tomato hornworms.
- Will attract beneficials such as: praying mantis, ladybugs, parasitic wasps, hoverflies, and spiders that feed on pests.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: asparagus, beets, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, celery, corn, cucumbers, lettuce, melons, onions, squash, and tomatoes (only ok near tomatoes, again, if planted in its own container.)
Foes:
Don’t inter-plant with carrots, caraway, cilantro, lavender, or in same container with tomatoes. Dill cross-pollinates with cilantro, ruining both.
Seed Starting:
Dill doesn’t transplant well as it has a taproot. Sow seeds outdoors. Seedlings emerge in 10-14 days. Height: 18-24”, Spread 8-12”, Days to Maturity 40-60, grows in Full Sun.
Maintenance:
Dill is a warm-season herb and very sensitive to light freezes. As mentioned above, dill is a biennial (Meaning it only lives for two years. In the first year they produce only roots, stems and leaves. In their second year, they flower and form seeds, and die.) If planting for pickling use, plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure constant supply.
Hyssop – Perennial. (It is a member of the mint family, but well- behaved and is a good plant for growing in containers as a managed clump. Do not overwater. Allow soil to go completely dry between watering, then soak thoroughly. Tolerates dry conditions well.)
Benefits:
- Attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
- Repels cabbage moths and cabbage butterflies.
- Said to stimulate the growth of grapes.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: cabbage and all cole crops.
Foes:
Found none in my research.
Seed Starting:
Easily grown from seed, indoors or out. Germinates in 14-31 days; less days in prime conditions with lights. Hyssop can be propagated by root division in spring or fall and cuttings in late spring to early summer.
Height: 2-3’, Space plants 6-12” apart, blooms from summer to fall with a profusion of purple, pink, white, or purple-blue flowers, grows in Full Sun but will tolerate some light Shade. Hardiness Zones: 3-9.
Maintenance:
After flowering, prune to the first set of hyssop’s leaves to maintain an attractive shape and to promote flowering for the next year.
Interesting Tidbits:
In the 7th century, hyssop was scattered on floors of sick rooms and also used to improve smells of kitchens. Flower stems were also dried and placed in Psalms in the middle of the Bible; it is said that people would sniff their Bibles and the aroma from the hyssop would keep them awake during a long church service.
Lavender – Perennial (Plant in its own container. In the deep South, it does better in pots, as it benefits from improved drainage and air circulation. When container planting, it is important to pick varieties that do well in pots and grow well in your zone. Lavender is very drought tolerant and watering less is more with lavender. It does not like wet feet and planted in a container, should not sit in water.)
Benefits:
- Confuses pest insects.
- Deters coddling moths as well as a wide variety of flies and beetles.
- Pollinators flock to lavender.
- Deer and rabbit resistant.
- Attracts hummingbirds, butterflies, ladybugs, and birds.
- Repels fleas and ticks.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: Echinacea, aster, and sedum, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and broccoli.
Foes:
None found in my research.
Seed Starting:
Growing lavender from seed is a complicated 3+ month process. If that is something you would enjoy, here is a link with good visual instruction.
Buy nursery grown varieties best suited for your area. Lavender prefers low to moderate fertile soils; don’t amend with organics. Do a soil test, and add lime to the potting mix to raise the alkalinity to a PH of 7. Do not add mulch in the summer months.
Lavender doesn’t survive well by plant division. You can propagate cuttings in the early summer.
Sizes range on variety chosen. Average Height: 12-16”, Average Spread: 12-18”, grows in Full Sun. Hardiness Zones: 5-9.
The best lavender varieties for containers are: Anouk, Silver Anouk, Super Blue, Blue River, Mini Blue, and Thumbalina Leigh. Again, make sure the variety you choose is well suited for your zone. For example, in my hot and humid Alabama area, Anouk or Silver Anouk are the best options for growing in containers.
One place you can find all of these lavender varieties is at:
Maintenance:
Harvest flowering stalks and use fresh or dried. Deadhead spent blossoms to stimulate additional flowering. Lavender will self-sow if flower stalks are left on the plant.
Oregano – Spreading Perennial (If unusually cold winter, it can die back. Plant in its own container. Oregano does not like wet feet. Oregano planted in a container should not sit in water. There are two categories of oregano: Mediterranean from the mint family and Mexican from the lemon verbena family.)
Benefits:
- Oregano repels many types of insects to include cabbage moths. Aphids are deterred by means of predation. Aphids actually love oregano, but this herb attracts syrphidae, (or hoverflies; also called flower flies,) that feed on aphids.
- Great companion with all.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: basil, broccoli, cauliflower, peppers, sage, and thyme, garlic, onions, chives.
Foes:
None found in my research.
Seed Starting:
Direct sow or start seeds indoors (which is more reliable.) If starting indoors, plant the seeds or cuttings 6-10 weeks before the last spring frost dates. Oregano seeds are dust-like, so handle with care. Distribute the tiny seeds as evenly as possible on the surface of moist potting mix. Do not bury them. Using bottom heat will improve your success rate. As seedlings grow, keep potting mix on the dry side. Plant outside once soil temps are around 70 degrees F. Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days.
Additionally, oregano is easy to propagate from cuttings or by plant division.
Height: 12-24”, Spread 10-18”, Days to Maturity 90-200, grows in Full Sun. Hardy to Zone 5.
Maintenance:
Once oregano has six weeks growth, trim to within 1 inch of the center. Oregano is susceptible to spider mites and leaf hoppers; planting near garlic, onions or chives will help with those pests.
Parsley – Biennial (Usually grown as an annual. Plant in its own container or can inter-plant 1 with other vegetables. Parsley likes moist soil; the growbags in a KPGS work well for them. The buckets on a gutter in an RGGS set-up will work fine, too. As the roots will only draw up what they need. In the buckets on a gutter, I would top water a couple of times a week for two weeks until you are assured they are established and growing well.)
Benefits:
- Believed to repel harmful beetles.
- When flowering, it draws butterflies and hoverflies.
- Increases the fragrance of roses when planted with them.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: asparagus, carrots, chives, corn, onions, peas, peppers, tomatoes.
(Note: Parsley should not be inter-planted with corn in a container. It takes up too much room and depletes nutrients from the limited amount of potting mix in the container. The corn needs all of the nutrients in the bag.)
Foes:
Don’t inter-plant with lettuce or mint.
Seed Starting:
Direct sow is best because, like its cousins: dill and cilantro, parsley develops a taproot that does better if left undisturbed, however, it can be seed started indoors and transplanted with care. Soak parsley seeds in warm water for one day before they are planted for best results. Sow them no more than ¼’ deep in potting mix. Start seed indoors 6-8 weeks before they are moved outside. Seedlings emerge in 10-25 days. Height: 12- 15”, Spread: 10-12”, Days to Maturity 70-90, grows in Full Sun/Partial Shade. Hardiness Zones: 4-9.
Maintenance:
Harvest parsley leaves any time during the growing season; cut them off at the base of the plant.
Rosemary – Perennial for zones 7 and up. Annual for zones 6 and lower unless you bring indoors and try to keep it alive. (Plant in its own container. Rosemary does not like wet feet. A container of rosemary should not sit in standing water.)
Benefits:
- Rosemary repels: bean beetles, carrot flies, moths, and cabbage flies.
- Benefits the growth of sage when inter-planted.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, hot peppers, sage, and thyme.
Foes:
Don’t inter-plant with basil, potatoes, pumpkins, and squash. Rosemary will die when planted with basil.
Seed Starting:
Rosemary seeds have a much lower germination rate than other popular herbs. Start seeds indoors 3 months before the warm weather arrives. Rosemary seedlings need to be 3” high and sturdy enough before transplanting outdoors in warm weather. For me personally, I purchase transplants instead of trying to start from seed.
Rosemary can also be started in potting mix from cuttings.
Height: 3-5’ if not kept pruned, Spread 2-4’ if not clipped, Days to Maturity 80-1200, grows in Full Sun.
Maintenance:
Prune rosemary regularly so that the plant won’t get lanky, and remember to trim, also, after it flowers. Rosemary plants do not like wet feet and is best to not let it sit in standing water when planted in containers. If planted in a container resting on the ground, water when the top 2” of the potting mix feels dry; give it a good deep drink letting the container drain freely.
Sage – Perennial (Plant in its own container. Sage is another herb that does not like wet feet and, when planted in a container, should not sit in standing water.)
Benefits:
- The strong scent of sage deters: black flea beetles and some bean parasites, cabbage flies, cabbage maggots, cabbage looper, and carrot flies.
- When left to flower, it attracts honeybees.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: beans, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, carrots, strawberries, tomatoes, and rosemary
Foes:
Don’t plant with basil, cucumbers, onions, and rue.
Seed Starting:
Sage seeds store and germinate poorly. If starting seeds indoors, sow under plant lights 6-8 weeks before the last frost dates. Germinates: 21 days. Height: 12-30”, Spread 16-24”, Days to Maturity 70-75 days from transplant, 90-100 days from seed, grows in Full Sun.
Additionally, sage can be started in potting mix from cuttings.
Hardiness Zones 5-8, humid Zones 9 and up, sage is usually grown as an annual.
Maintenance:
Harvest leaves sparingly the first year of growth; pick as needed in subsequent years. Sage is hardy to -30 degrees F, if covered. In early spring, prune plants back, cutting out the oldest growth to promote new growth. Even with pruning, plants can get woody and stop producing lots of branches after 3 to 5 years. At this point, you may want to replace with a new one.
Tarragon – Annual, in temperate zones; perennial in hot climates. (Plant in its own container. Tarragon does not like wet feet, and should not sit in standing water.)
Benefits:
- Tarragon, with its aromatic leaves and peppery-like flavor, is a general nuisance to pests.
Companion Plants:
Plant throughout the garden and can help enhance the flavor and growth, especially when inter-planted with eggplant. Note here: Tarragon can get very tall, so if you choose to inter-crop with another vegetable in a container, I would recommend only planting one small seedling in a container no smaller than 7 gallons.
Foes: None found in my research.
Seed Starting:
Tarragon is best grown from seedlings, cuttings, or divisions. Some varieties can be propagated from seeds, so look for those to seed start indoors. Height: 2-3’ if not kept pruned, Spread 12”, grows in Full Sun. French tarragon is hardy to Zone 5, or to zone 4b with winter protection.
Maintenance:
Harvest tarragon regularly. Prune it regularly to prevent flowering and to keep the height to around 2’ (otherwise the plant will fall over.) Divide them every 3 to 4 years in the spring or fall. New plants can grow from stem cuttings or root cuttings.
Thyme – Perennial (Can plant in its own container or inter-plant 1 with vegetables in the same container as it is a small, hardy perennial. If inter-cropping with vegetables, at the end of the season, you can transplant it to its own container or in-ground. This hardy herb is adaptable to pots as small as 4-6 inches. Thyme does not like wet feet and planted in a container, should not sit in water.)
Benefits:
- Thyme deters cabbage worms and white fly infestations.
Companion Plants:
Plays well with most throughout the garden, but especially good with: the brassicas, eggplant, strawberries, tomatoes, and potato.
Foes:
Do not plant with cucumbers, or the onion family.
Seed Starting:
Thyme is slow growing. Normally, a thyme plant is propagated from cuttings or by plant division. They can be grown from seed but germination ranges from one to twelve weeks. Height: 12-14”, Spread: 12”, grows in Full Sun. Hardiness Zones: 4-8.
Maintenance:
Cut both the leaves and flowers of thyme as you need them. Don’t worry about taking too much at a time, as an established plant will keep coming back.
Valerian – Perennial (Plant in its own container. Valerian does not like wet feet and planted in a container, should not sit in water.)
Benefits:
- Very fragrant flowers.
- Attracts hoverflies.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: Echinacea, Catnip, Dill, and Agastache (giant hyssops.)
Foes:
None found in my research.
Seed Starting:
Start with purchased plant, or seed start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost date. Set out in the garden 2-4 weeks BEFORE the last frost. Height: 4-5’ when flowering, Spread: 18”(so use a big container,) grows in Full Sun to partial afternoon shade. Hardiness Zones: 3-9. (Extremely cold hardy.)
Maintenance:
Gather stems for use as cut flowers to keep from reseeding and becoming invasive. This plant is loved by birds; protect young seedling with netting to keep birds from eating them. Valerian is also loved by cats and dogs. You may find a cat laying and rolling in the plant knocking the stems to the ground.
Yarrow – Perennial. (Adapts to dry conditions well and doesn’t like wet feet. It can become invasive, therefore very suitable to growing in containers.)
Benefits:
- Attracts beneficial insects and pollinators such as: lacewings, parasitic wasps, ground beetles, spiders, ladybugs, and hoverflies. These insects find habitat for egg-laying or overwintering refuge in the fern-like foliage.
- Well-known for its ability in improving the soil when left to grow a season before removing.
- Very valuable compost activator as it increases the nutrient value of any compost heap. Just chop up the stalks and leaves and add them.
Companion Plants:
Plant near: brassicas, tomatoes, melons, beans, and spinach
Foes:
Found none in my research.
Seed Starting:
Buy as transplants or start seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist potting mix. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting mix. Place under lights in a warm location. Germination: 14-21 days.
Height: 3’, Space plants 6-12” apart, blooms from summer to fall with a profusion of pink, white, yellow, red, and orange flowers depending on variety, grows in Full Sun. Hardiness Zones: 3-9.
Maintenance:
It’s easy to collect the seeds after the flower heads have died, so you can sow them elsewhere. Cut the stems down to 1-2” above the surface after its first winter. Cut the stems at an angle to avoid water buildup in the stem. Divide the clumps every 3-5 years. Remove any dead leaves and add them to the compost heap.
Interesting Tidbits:
Yarrow doesn’t burn very easily, so it is sometimes used in areas that are prone to fires as a way to slow down spreading fire. It is often the first plant to begin regrowth in the disturbed area and will actually flourish in these conditions.
Yarrow is also planted to prevent erosion as it thrives in areas with dry, thin soil that are prone to erosion. That characteristic combined with its deep, thick roots make it the perfect plant for this type of area.
Yarrow accumulates copper and zinc from the soil. That is why it is often used to clean up lead-contaminated sites: The lead concentrated in the plants, then dug up and disposed of properly.
Additional Things to Consider:
- For the herbs that do not like wet feet or to sit in standing water, my recommendation is to add a bit of small pea gravel to the bottom of the container if you intend to let it sit directly on the ground. This will assist with good drainage.
- When in the garden, crush a few leaves of various herbs to release their scent.
- Be careful not to over-fertilize herbs. Most do not like it and will simply die if fussed with or over-fertilized. Some, like thyme and oregano, thrive on neglect and won’t be as tasty if given too much attention, water, and food. If you are adding any herbs directly into buckets with heavy feeder vegetables, keep the ring of fertilizer (that is added a week or two later,) away from the herb plus it could burn the roots.
- Harvesting General Rule of Thumb…the more you pick, the more you get.
- Prepare all of the perennial herbs for winter – look at the maintenance section on each herb for instructions. Many will drop seeds if not pruned in time and you may end up with herbs growing where you do not desire them to be.
6. When inter-planting herbs with each other and/or flowers in containers, consider:
A. Size and growth habits of each herb,
B. Avoid mixing those that like plenty of water (such as mint, cilantro, parsley, etc.) with those that like a well-drained soil (such as oregano, basil, lavender, thyme, etc.)
C. Avoid mixing herbs that are foes with each other.
7. Avoid making it too complex, too early. Grow what you love eating. Basil is a perfect trainer herb if you are new to growing herbs.
8. Many varieties of an herb are available; know the flavor you’re looking to get. For example, there are many flavors/types of thyme, mint, oregano, and basil.
9. Prevent a garden invasion! Herbs like mint and oregano are voracious growers and get downright aggressive in a garden. Growing these herbs that don’t mind their manners are best done in containers and never in ground.
10. Herbs need regular haircuts. Study how to prune each one that you grow.
11. Ideas of what to do with perennial herbs that are outgrowing their containers…
A. Keeping them pruned is key, but some need replacing after 3-5 years.
B. Consider transplanting the herb companions in a larger raised bed, or a big grow bag like the 150 gallon size.
C. If you grow fruit trees, consider creating plant guilds underneath. A fruit tree guild’s goal is to underplant a central element (the fruit tree,) with plants that are highly useful, multifunctional, and ones that might naturally be found growing together. For example, underplantings in a guild might include plants that fertilize, repel pests, attract beneficial insects, create mulch, and suppress grass. The general idea is to take advantage of the benefits of plants to reduce cost, labor, and the need to import materials for the fruit tree to thrive and grow.
Below is a general picture of the basic concept followed by an explanation of the various plants.
- Grass suppressing bulbs. Fruit tree roots are generally fairly shallow and grass is its competition. Planting dozens of daffodils, camas, and perennial alliums (garlic, garlic chives, ramps, wild leeks, or Egyptian onions,) at both the drip line of the fruit tree at its maturity and 18” around the trunk suppress a grass invasion.
- Mulch plants. Moving inward from there, a broken circle of a few mulch plants like comfrey, artichoke, cardoon, rhubarb, clovers, nasturtiums, dwarf yarrow, wild strawberry, ferns, and reeds are planted. These are slashed four or five times throughout the summer and left in place to compost.
- Nutrient accumulators. Dotted around these mulch plants are 4-5 (number depends upon the size of the guild,) nutrient accumulators such as yarrow, dill, chamomile, dandelion, bee balm, Queen Ann’s lace, mints, chicory, plantain, and lambs quarters. Many of these herbs are edible, too.
- Pest repellents. Another half dozen plants are added to deter pests and attract beneficial insects. Nasturtiums (which also serve as a mulch plant,) false indigo, elderberry, wild marigold, Mexican marigold, and horseradish are good examples used.
- Nitrogen fixers. The last added into the guild are a thick ground cover of nitrogen fixing plants such as Dutch or New Zealand white clover, alfalfa, lupine, or cowpeas.
Here is a picture of a plum tree guild when we first planted it. You can see the daffodil bulbs planted both at the drip line and around the trunk.
I hope this gives you a lot of fruitful (wink) ideas for your gardening endeavors.
Happy Gardening!
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